My second major build was a full scale reconstruction of the 2010 TARDIS prop. The woodwork is currently completed and it is waiting for summer so I can use the garage for painting.

In keeping with the original prop, this is made from clear pine which is a soft wood making it challenging to work with. This will be sand blasted to 'raise the grain' prior to painting.

In the early stages of the build I was getting rather frustrated with the difficulty of making accurate cuts in a soft material which wants to warp at the slightest provocation. Then I saw some of the original props at the Dr Who Experience and I realized I was doing rather better than some of the pro builders.

Roof The roof is one of the trickiest parts to make
Each post is 7 foot long and made from four 6"x1" planks biscuit joined. You might think this makes each post 7" square but they are actually 6 1/4.
Sign Boxes
The sign boxes are a detail connecting the four posts.
Sides and Doors
The sides and doors appear to be made as frame and panel joinery. Looks are deceiving.
The base on which the rest of the prop rests. Mine is made in two parts so I can fit it in my van.


Each post has 4 sides, there are 4 posts. A lot of wood!
The first step in making the posts was to cut the wood to size plus 1".
Using a story stick to mark out positions for cutting biscuits.
Holes cut with a plate joiner (biscuit cutter).
Glue up. This was an 'every clamp in the shop affair.
Ganging the posts up to mark up for trimming to final size.
The posts are exactly half an inch too big for my chop saw and far too large to handle safely on the table saw. They were also too small for my regular circular saw. This mini saw was the perfect size.


Trial fitting the sides to check they are square.
The assembled base with post supports installed.
These leveling feet under each post keep the base precisely level.


Gluing up the rails and stiles for the front of one door.
Checking against the story stick.
Getting ready for the glue up. This is a complicated business. The front and back rails must be perfectly aligned. You can see the pocket screw joinery used for reinforcement.
Glue up. Clamp intensive.
One set of doors before trimming to size.
Trimming the doors to length. This makes sure that the front and back are exactly aligned.


The sides are just like the doors but twice as heavy!

Test fitting
These pegs are used to align the front and back. They will be covered in the final build by the center strip.
Dry fit before glue up.
Masking up the inner panels to try to stop glue squeeze out ruining them.

The actual glue up was a very complex affair including the use of two massive aluminium box sections as cauls to help prevent cupping.


I did not want the roof to have any visible internal structure so the whole weight had to be supported by the edge joints. To allow this, I reinforced the seams with fiberglass underneath after assembly.

The roof is the most complicated glue up. To help things, I built this temporary frame to support the roof while I was working on it.
Each rough cut piece is fitted in turn and trimmed to exact size.
The roof after the glue up was complete.
One corner pulled apart.
After removing the triangle and making this new one.
The replacement triangle fitted, the seams were fiberglassed in.


Trial fitting posts to the base
Floor, posts and sign boxes in place.
Trial Assembly. The doors are deliberately too big to allow trimming to exact size
After trimming all parts to size and fitting the roof.